According to traditional accounts, the soon-to-be-emperor Dom Pedro declared Brazilian independence beside the Ipiranga River on Sept. 7, 1822. A palace-like monument, built to commemorate the moment, eventually became the Ipiranga Museum. The museum closed in 2013 for repairs and just reopened on Brazil’s bicentennial (Sept. 7). The exhibits are often contrarian, taking a sharply critical view of the way history is traditionally taught, down to the explanation of the 19th-century painter Pedro Américo’s room-size painting “Independence or Death,” which depicts the moment when Dom Pedro, on on horseback, declared independence from Portugal. Exhibits range from household items and historic photos to a sound-and-light show projected onto a scale model replica of São Paulo in 1841. Free entry until Dec. 6, then 30 reais.